By the middle of July 2019, I had been living in Berlin for only about two months.
I was still very much in that stage of discovering the city: looking at ordinary things because they were not yet ordinary to me, noticing behaviours that long-term Berliners probably walked past without giving them a second thought, and gradually trying to understand what exactly constituted the Berlin lifestyle.
Then I saw this.
On top of a street sign, somebody had carefully assembled what appeared to be a small collection of wine and sparkling-wine corks. They were not simply rubbish thrown there. At least some of them seemed to have been deliberately positioned, balanced and accumulated, creating a tiny and completely unofficial installation above the heads of everybody walking underneath.
Naturally, I took a photograph.
Who put them there?
I had several immediate questions.
Was this the work of one person, slowly adding another cork after every bottle? Was it a spontaneous tradition among people who regularly drank nearby? Did somebody place the first cork there and other strangers simply understand the invitation and continue the collection?
Or had one particularly creative person simply looked at the top of the sign one evening and decided, for reasons known only to himself, that what it really needed was a cork sculpture?
I had no idea.
And that was part of what made it funny.
There was no plaque, no explanation, no municipal project number and certainly no indication that anybody had formally approved it. It was just there: several corks, some wire or improvised supports, a tree above them and a Berlin street sign underneath.
For me, still a relatively recent arrival, it was another small piece of evidence that Berlin operated according to rules that were sometimes rather different from those I had become accustomed to elsewhere.
Beginning to understand Berlin
When you first move to a city, the famous landmarks are actually the easy part. Berlin has plenty of them. You can learn their names from a guidebook in an afternoon.
Understanding how a city feels takes much longer.
That comes from the small things: what people do with public spaces, how they dress, where they sit, what they ignore, what they tolerate, what they decorate and what they quietly transform without asking anybody for permission.
Berlin was already giving me plenty of material.
The city certainly has its formal side, but everyday Berlin also has a long-established reputation for unconventional and alternative ways of living. That character is particularly visible in neighbourhoods where public space, cafés, nightlife, art and ordinary residential life overlap rather freely. Berlin's own tourism and municipal descriptions still emphasise this combination of creativity, multiculturalism and alternative lifestyles in parts of the city.
But I did not need an official description to notice that something was different.
I could simply look upwards at a street sign and find a collection of corks.
A photograph worth keeping
Nothing important happened here.
There was no major event, no extraordinary story and no life-changing revelation. I simply walked past something that made me stop, look twice and smile.
But photographs like this are exactly why I like keeping a personal record.
Years later, the grand photographs of a city are easy to recognise. The Brandenburg Gate still looks like the Brandenburg Gate. The television tower is still unmistakably the television tower.
What disappears much more easily are these tiny scenes from ordinary life.
The corks may have disappeared the following day. Perhaps they survived for months. Perhaps someone eventually knocked them down, or perhaps somebody kept adding to the collection. I never found out.
What the photograph preserved instead was my own reaction at that particular moment in 2019.
I had been in Berlin for barely two months, and I was beginning to notice that the city had a rather particular relationship with normality.
There would be many more examples to come.
For the moment, however, a handful of corks sitting inexplicably above a street sign seemed like a perfectly good introduction.
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